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Tahitian
Black Pearls
Author:
Nathalie Fiset
Tahitian
pearls are named after the island of Tahiti and they are highly
prized for their beauty and the unique charm of their darker tones,
thanks to the island's black-lipped oysters that produce black, gray
and green-black pearls. Recognizing their value, pearl farmers used
the pearl culturing techniques pioneered by the Japanese to cultivate
Tahitian pearls. Since then, Tahitian pearls have become one of the
most sought-after gems in the world.
Factors to
consider when choosing quality Tahitian pearl necklaces, in order of importance:
Nacre
thickness ideally, the minimum thickness of nacre in Tahitian pearls
is 0.8 mm. A thicker nacre covering means that the pearl's luster
will last long. Thinner nacres have a tendency to wear off easily.
Tahitian pearls which are thinner than the required minimum are not
exported from French Polynesia.
Surface
texture and quality Tahitian pearls, like all pearls, are graded
according to the quality of its surface. Pearls could have thick
nacres but if the surface is flawed, their value decreases. Flaws
include bumps, spots, discolorations, scratches and other
irregularities. The more a pearl has, the less valuable or lower-grade
it becomes.
To rate the
quality of Tahitian pearls, jewelers use a grading system, consisting
of A, B, C and D as the marks, with A-grade pearls being the highest
quality. A-grade pearls have the cleanest, nearly flawless surface,
virtually free of spots, discoloration or bumps. These pearls have a
high luster and reflective quality.
B-grade
Tahitian pearls have slightly (but still imperceptible) imperfect
surfaces, with only 30% of the surface affected by flaws. C-grade
Tahitian pearls have medium luster and imperfections are already
quite perceptible while D-grade pearls are those with 60% of its
surface affected by quite obvious imperfections, including scratches.
Luster one
quality of pearls that sets it apart from other gemstones is its
unique brilliance. As opposed to other gems like the diamond, for
example, pearls shine with a softer light. And since they reflect
light, they also look like mirrors, reflecting everything in their
immediate surrounding.
Generally, the
thicker the nacre, the more brilliant and mirror-like the shine. Good
quality pearls are clear and almost metal-like in their sheen.
Size the
largest Tahitian pearl ever produced is 25mm, although this in not a
round pearl. The largest round Tahitian pearl is at 21mm. Generally,
the bigger the size of the pearl, the higher its value is. Most
Tahitian pearls are in the range of 8 to 14mm, although a few are
measured at 16mm.
Shape pearls
follow the shape of the irritant or nucleus that enters the mouth of
the oyster or mollusk that produces it. But to meet jewelry
standards, most pearls are produced following three major categories:
round or spherical, symmetrical and baroque.
Spherical
pearls are those that are round or nearly round. A perfectly round
pearl, whether natural or cultured, is quite rare and therefore
highly prized. Spherical pearls are the most familiar and popular
shapes. Nearly-round pearls are categorized as sphericals, although
they may be slightly elongated or flattened.
Symmetrical
pearls are so-called because if you cut one in half, each piece will
mirror the other. Included in this category are oval pearls, which
taper at the ends and are wider at the center; button pearls, which
are slightly more flattened and often used for earrings; and drop
pearls, which look like teardrops or pears, usually included in
jewelry as pendants.
Baroque pearls
may also be semi-baroque and include all other shapes that cannot be
classified as either spherical or symmetrical. These are the favorite
pearls of artists because of their irregular shapes. Baroque pearls
may resemble sticks, studs and even crosses.
Other notable
variations in Tahitian pearls are those that have 'rings' tiny
grooves that encircle the pearl's surface. For this reason, these
pearls are called circled or ringed, although this quality is only
used as a descriptive device, to distinguish one pearl from another.
For example, a ringed pearl may be described as a 'ringed oval' or
'circled drop'.
Color when
Tahitian pearls are mentioned, the first thing that comes to most
people's minds is black pearls although they do come in other colors,
albeit in darker tones. Some of their interesting colors are gray,
green, brown and blue.
The pearl's
color is determined by two things: the main body color and its
overtone. A pearl can have one or more overtones. The main body color
is the predominant color of the pearl while the overtone is the hint
of iridescent color that is seen on top of the body color and can
affect or enhance the dominant color of the pearl. Pink, gold, blue,
silver and purple are some of the most common overtones.
A combination
of the body color and overtone is used to describe a pearl. For
example, a greenish black pearl is called a peacock while a yellowish
gray is called a champagne.
When buying
Tahitian pearl necklaces, keep the above considerations in mind.
Aside from quality, you might also want to consider design and
setting. Don't be afraid to ask questions and information in detail.
If the jewelry shop is reputable, they will be more than glad to
answer your questions.
On your own,
shopping for real Tahitian pearl necklaces can be quite a challenge.
To help you make your decision, here are a few tips on real Tahitian pearls:
- they have
overtones over the main body color. Fake or imitation pearls don't
and their color looks flat. Real Tahitian pearls also glow with a
faint reddish color when examined using crossed filters.
- Tahitian
pearls feel cool, although they do adapt to your body temperature.
Imitation pearls maintain the same temperature as their surroundings,
so when they are touched for the first time, they won't feel cold.
- To test for
real Tahitian pearls, hold them in the palm of your hand and take
note of their weight. They are heavier than imitation pearls. If you
rub Tahitian pearls across your teeth, they will feel grainy or
coarse and not smooth. Their holes are also smoother around the edges.
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